In 788, a young monk named Saichō built a small hut on Mt. Hiei — the beginning of Tendai Buddhism. From this mountain, Japan's greatest Buddhist masters emerged: Hōnen, Shinran, Dōgen, and Nichiren. That's why it's called the "Mother Mountain of Japanese Buddhism." The Eternal Flame, burning for over 1,200 years without going out, and the extreme Sennichi Kaihōgyō (1,000-day walking meditation) still live on. UNESCO World Heritage since 1994.
豆知識FUN FACTS
知ってた？ ①Did you know? #1
最澄は19歳で「山にこもる」宣言をしたSaichō declared he would retreat to the mountains at age 19
Saichō was on the elite track at major temples in Nara, but at 19, he decided "Buddhism in the capital has lost its way" and retreated alone to Mt. Hiei. After 12 years of training, Emperor Kanmu recognized him and sent him to China (Tang dynasty) to bring back Tendai teachings. This Tendai school became the foundation of Japanese Buddhism.
「延暦寺を開いた最澄は、19歳でエリートコースを捨てて山にこもった人なんだよ」
"The monk who founded this temple gave up his elite career at 19 and went to live alone on this mountain."
知ってた？ ②Did you know? #2
1200年以上消えていない「不滅の法灯」The "Eternal Flame" has burned for over 1,200 years
In the inner sanctuary of Konpon Chūdō, an oil lamp lit by Saichō has been burning continuously for over 1,200 years. The Japanese word "yudan" (carelessness, literally "cutting the oil") is said to originate here. Monks add rapeseed oil every day, never letting it die. Even when Oda Nobunaga burned the temple in 1571, the flame survived — it had been shared with Yamadera (Risshaku-ji) temple, and was brought back.
「この灯火、1200年間一度も消えてないんだって。『油断』の語源らしいよ」
"This flame has been burning for 1,200 years straight. The Japanese word for 'carelessness' literally comes from 'letting the oil run out' here."
知ってた？ ③Did you know? #3
信長はなぜ延暦寺を焼いたのか？Why did Nobunaga burn Enryaku-ji?
1571年の焼き討ちは、単なる宗教弾圧ではなく…
The 1571 burning wasn't just religious persecution…
知ってた？ ④Did you know? #4
日本仏教の「オールスター」がここから巣立ったJapan's Buddhist "All-Stars" all trained here
法然、親鸞、道元、日蓮…日本仏教の主要宗派の開祖たちが…
Hōnen, Shinran, Dōgen, Nichiren — the founders of Japan's major Buddhist sects all…
知ってた？ ⑤Did you know? #5
千日回峰行 — 7年かけて地球1周分歩くSennichi Kaihōgyō — walking around the Earth in 7 years
比叡山の荒行「千日回峰行」では、7年かけて…
In the extreme practice of Sennichi Kaihōgyō, monks walk for 7 years…
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In 1571, Oda Nobunaga burned Enryaku-ji to the ground, reportedly killing 3,000–4,000 monks. It wasn't just religious persecution — the temple had sheltered Nobunaga's enemies, the Asai-Asakura alliance. At the time, Enryaku-ji was a massive military-political force with its own warrior monks, standing in the way of Nobunaga's unification of Japan. The temple was rebuilt under Hideyoshi and Tokugawa, and most current buildings date from the Edo period.
「信長が延暦寺を焼いたのは、お寺が敵の武将をかくまったからなんだって」
"Nobunaga burned this temple because it sheltered his enemies — it was basically a fortress."
知ってた？ ④Did you know? #4
日本仏教の「オールスター」がここから巣立ったJapan's Buddhist "All-Stars" all trained here
The list of monks who trained at Enryaku-ji and later founded their own schools is staggering: Hōnen (Pure Land), Shinran (True Pure Land), Dōgen (Soto Zen), Nichiren (Nichiren), Ippen (Ji), and Eisai (Rinzai Zen). Most Japanese encounter these schools at funerals — and nearly all their founders studied on this mountain. That's why it's called "the Mother Mountain of Japanese Buddhism."
「日本の仏教の宗派って、ほぼ全部ここ出身なんだよ。仏教界の東大みたいなもの」
"Almost every major Buddhist school in Japan started from this mountain. It's like the Harvard of Buddhism."
知ってた？ ⑤Did you know? #5
千日回峰行 — 7年かけて地球1周分歩くSennichi Kaihōgyō — walking around the Earth in 7 years
The Sennichi Kaihōgyō is a 7-year practice covering about 40,000 km (once around the Earth). Monks leave at 2 AM each day, visiting 260 sacred spots on the mountain. After 700 days (year 5), they enter the "Dōiri" — 9 days of no food, no water, no sleep, no lying down. They carry a short sword, prepared to take their own life if they fail. Only 14 monks have completed it since WWII. They are called "living Buddhas."
「ここの修行、7年で地球1周分歩くんだって。途中でやめたら自害する覚悟なんだよ」
"The monks here walk around the Earth in 7 years. They carry a blade — if they quit, they're prepared to end their life."
知ってた？ ⑥Did you know? #6
最澄と空海 — 天才同士の友情と決裂Saichō vs. Kūkai — friendship and fallout of two geniuses
Saichō and Kūkai sailed to China the same year (804). After returning, Saichō — the senior monk — respected Kūkai enough to borrow his esoteric scriptures. But a dispute over disciples soured their relationship. Kūkai refused to lend texts, saying "esoteric teachings can't be transmitted through writing alone." They never spoke again. This split created Japan's two great Buddhist mountains: Tendai (Enryaku-ji) and Shingon (Tō-ji).
「最澄と空海、実は同じ船で中国に渡ったのに、最後は絶交したんだよ」
"The founders of Japan's two biggest Buddhist schools sailed to China together — but ended up never speaking again."
知ってた？ ⑦Did you know? #7
延暦寺は「寺」ではなく「山」全体Enryaku-ji isn't a "temple" — it's an entire mountain
There's no single building called "Enryaku-ji." The name refers to about 100 halls and pagodas spread across Mt. Hiei. It's divided into three areas: Tōdō (East Pagoda) — where Saichō first settled, Saitō (West Pagoda) — the training grounds, and Yokawa — the most secluded area. Visiting all three takes half a day or more.
「延暦寺って実は一つの建物じゃなくて、山全体が延暦寺なんだよ」
"Fun fact: there's no single building called Enryaku-ji — the whole mountain IS the temple."
知ってた？ ⑧Did you know? #8
僧兵 — お坊さんが武装した理由Warrior monks — why Buddhist monks took up arms
In the late Heian period, Enryaku-ji grew into a military power with thousands of warrior monks (sōhei). When their demands were ignored, they'd march on Kyoto carrying sacred palanquins — an act called "gōso" (forceful petition). Emperor Shirakawa famously said three things he couldn't control: "the waters of Kamo River, the roll of the dice, and the warrior monks of Mt. Hiei." Far from the peaceful monk image.
「昔のこの山のお坊さん、武装して京都に攻め込んだりしてたんだって」
"The monks here used to be so powerful, even the Emperor said he couldn't control them."
知ってた？ ⑨Did you know? #9
根本中堂の大改修、今しか見られない光景Konpon Chūdō's major renovation — a once-in-a-lifetime view
The National Treasure Konpon Chūdō has been undergoing a major renovation since 2016, expected to last about 10 years. A special viewing platform lets you see the roof up close — normally you can only look up at it from far below. Watching the cypress bark roof being restored is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. The next major renovation won't happen for decades or even a century.
「今ちょうど大改修中で、普段見られない屋根を間近で見られるんだって」
"They're doing a major renovation right now — you can see the roof up close, which normally never happens."
深掘り ⑩Deep Dive #10
「一隅を照らす」— 最澄の名言の真意"Light up your corner" — the true meaning of Saichō's words
Saichō's famous quote: "One who lights up their corner is a treasure of the nation." It means that a person who shines their best right where they are is more valuable than any gold or jewels. This teaching — that doing your best in your own role is what truly matters — remains the motto of Enryaku-ji and the Tendai school to this day.
「最澄の『一隅を照らす』って、自分の持ち場で頑張る人が国の宝だって意味なんだって」
"Saichō said 'the person who lights up their corner is a national treasure' — meaning doing your best right where you are."
深掘り ⑪Deep Dive #11
延暦寺から生まれた宗派が日本人の暮らしを変えたHow Enryaku-ji's schools changed Japanese daily life
The schools founded by Enryaku-ji alumni transformed Buddhism from an aristocratic religion into something for everyone. Hōnen taught "just chanting is enough for salvation." Shinran went further: "even the wicked can be saved." Dōgen said "zazen IS enlightenment." Nichiren declared "the Lotus Sutra is the ultimate truth." These teachings still shape Japanese funerals, memorial services, and Obon traditions today. Without Enryaku-ji, Japan's relationship with life and death would be completely different.
「日本のお葬式の宗派って、ほぼ全部この山から生まれたんだよ」
"Almost every Buddhist school that handles funerals in Japan today was born from this mountain."
The main hall of Enryaku-ji, originally built by Saichō. The inner sanctuary sits 3 meters below the visitors' floor — a rare design that puts you at eye level with the Buddha. This is where the 1,200-year-old Eternal Flame burns. The current building was rebuilt in 1642 by Tokugawa Iemitsu. During the ongoing renovation, a viewing platform offers a rare close-up of the roof.
必見 2 — 東塔エリアMUST-SEE #2 — Tōdō Area
阿弥陀堂・法華総持院東塔Amida Hall & Hokke Sōji-in East Pagoda
A beautifully painted vermillion hall on a hilltop in the Tōdō area. It's where memorial services for ancestors are held. Beside it stands the East Pagoda in the tahōtō style. The view of Lake Biwa from here is stunning — a popular photo spot. The East Pagoda was built according to Saichō's wishes.
The central hall of the Saitō area and the oldest building at Enryaku-ji. Originally at Mii-dera temple, it was moved here by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1595. It's the only structure that survived Nobunaga's burning. Monks still practice rigorous training here daily. Quieter than the Tōdō area, you can feel the solemn atmosphere of a real training ground.
The main hall of the Yokawa area, a striking vermillion building on stilts (similar to Kiyomizu-dera's famous stage). Founded by Ennin (Jikaku Daishi), this area is also known as the setting for the monk character in "The Tale of Genji." Fewer visitors make it this far, making it a hidden gem for those seeking tranquility deep in the forest.
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会話で使えるボーナスネタBONUS CONVERSATION STARTERS
ボーナス ①Bonus #1
比叡山は京都と滋賀の県境にあるMt. Hiei straddles Kyoto and Shiga prefectures
Enryaku-ji is famous as a "Kyoto World Heritage site," but it's actually located in Ōtsu, Shiga Prefecture. Mt. Hiei straddles the Kyoto–Shiga border, accessible from both sides. From Kyoto: cable car + ropeway. From Shiga: a scenic driveway. Only the Shiga side offers panoramic views of Lake Biwa.
「延暦寺って京都の世界遺産だけど、住所は実は滋賀県なんだよ」
"This temple is listed as a Kyoto World Heritage site, but technically it's in Shiga Prefecture."
ボーナス ②Bonus #2
延暦寺の精進料理は修行の一部Enryaku-ji's shōjin ryōri is part of the training
At Enryaku-ji, you can try shōjin ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), including the "Bonji Bento." Based on the idea that "eating itself is practice," it uses no meat or fish. Seasonal vegetables, tofu, and yuba are prepared to maximize natural flavors. Stay at Enryaku-ji Kaikan to combine it with morning prayer for an authentic monastic experience.
「ここの精進料理、食べること自体が修行なんだって。肉魚一切なし」
"The vegetarian food here isn't just a meal — it's literally part of the training."
ボーナス ③Bonus #3
天台宗は「すべての教えを包み込む」宗派Tendai: the school that embraces ALL teachings
The key feature of Tendai is the Lotus Sutra's teaching that "everyone can achieve Buddhahood." While other schools insisted on one path, Tendai embraced everything — meditation, chanting, esoteric rituals, and monastic rules. This "comprehensive Buddhism" is exactly why monks who trained here could specialize and go on to found their own schools.
「天台宗って、仏教のいろんな教えを全部取り入れた総合大学みたいな宗派なんだよ」
"Tendai is like a university of Buddhism — it teaches everything, which is why so many new schools came from it."
ボーナス ④Bonus #4
比叡山からの絶景 — 琵琶湖と京都を一望The breathtaking view — Lake Biwa and Kyoto in one glance
From 848m-high Mt. Hiei, you can see Lake Biwa (Japan's largest lake) to the east and Kyoto's cityscape to the west. The view near "Garden Museum Hiei" is especially stunning. In autumn, the entire mountain turns red and gold, and when a sea of clouds appears, it becomes truly mystical. Watching sunset over Kyoto from above is highly recommended.
「この山から琵琶湖と京都が両方見えるんだよ。夕暮れが最高」
"From up here you can see both Lake Biwa and Kyoto. The sunset view is incredible."
ボーナス ⑤Bonus #5
「叡山」の名は今も京都の日常に生きている"Eizan" lives on in Kyoto's daily life
Kyoto's "Eizan Railway" (Eiden) is a local line running along the foot of Mt. Hiei, connecting Demachiyanagi to Kurama, Kibune, and Mt. Hiei. "Eizan Cable" and "Eizan Ropeway" also carry the mountain's name. The mountain is deeply embedded in Kyoto's transport infrastructure. The Mt. Hiei Drive Bus from Kyoto Station is also a popular access route.
「京都の『えいでん』って叡山電鉄の略で、この比叡山のことなんだよ」
"Kyoto's 'Eiden' railway is named after this mountain — 'Eizan' is another reading of 'Mt. Hiei.'"